Cultural Tours/short breaks/Visits

Istanbul September 2009.

Our trip started with the prompt departure from Luton of our Easyjet flight to Istanbul. On arrival, we met our guide, Selim, a well informed and jovial character. After a slight altercation between our coach and a public bus we arrived safely at the hotel. After we had settled in, we enjoyed a typical Turkish meal.

In the rain we visited the 17th century Spice Market in the Bazaar Quarter of the city; an amazing, pungent and aromatic assault on our senses.  Numerous alleyways led off the main two avenues, each one lined with little shops openly displaying their wares with the animated shopkeepers out in front to catch our custom. The hustle and bustle added to the exotic experience of the smells and colours of all the spices on display.

Waiters weaved expertly between the jostling crowd delivering exotic, gold coloured trays with jewel-like glasses of Turkish tea - so much more elegant than a cardboard mug from Starbucks.  Traders presented their merchandize including dates, loofahs, rugs, lanterns, spinning tops, gold and silver trinkets and, of course, most suitable for this weather, umbrellas: street vendors bustled round us trying to make their sales.

Graham Peiser

On leaving the Spice Market the rain began to ease as we drove to the Dolmabahçe Palace, which sits on the shore of the Bosphorus. Built in the 19th century, it is considered one of the most glamorous palaces in the world.  We entered through the impressive Treasury Gate, where we witnessed the changing of the guard, then passed through some delightful gardens.   The Palace was built in 1843 for Sultan Abdulmeaid, in the western style externally, but internally in the Ottoman tradition.

The two most impressive features were firstly the amazing Bohemian crystal chandeliers and free standing lamps in every room - even the grand staircase had crystal balusters; secondly, the beautiful parquet flooring in many different patterns. The rooms were all large, ornate and richly decorated, but the Palace was in need of some tender-loving care; the huge silver ornaments were tarnished, the curtains fraying and the whole place needed cleaning. This neglect was in stark contrast to the Sultan's Summer palace Beyberleyi, which we visited on our last day, which was in immaculate order. Ataturk died here on 10th Nov. 1938 at 9.05 and all the clocks are set to this time as a mark of respect.

After lunch, we visited Christ Church, the centre of the Anglican community in Istanbul.   It is a unique architectural gem of neo gothic style, built as a memorial to the fallen of the Crimean War, consecrated in 1868.   The pulpit is made from marbles taken from the sites of the Seven Churches of Asia Minor. It is a simple, small church, with a panelled rood screen showing Moses, Elijah and John the Baptist dressed in a traditional Turkish shepherd's cloak.

Margaret Thorpe

From the English Church, a short walk along the cobbled streets of the Beyoglu area, were the small, open workshops with craftsmen working at their benches. This led us to the Galata Tower, reputedly the oldest tower in the world, which is visible from most parts of the city.

Galata Tower                                                                                                 photo Graham Peiser

The watchtower dates from the 6th Century and once served as a prison. Today it is a restaurant and a viewing gallery. We ascended to the Tower and despite some fear of the height, everyone agreed the view over this ancient, frenetic city between the Horn and the Bosphorus was stunning.  The tower is among the main tourist attractions of the City.

Just off the Sultanahmet Square, umpteen steps down, brought us into the cavernous, James Bond world of the Yerebatan Cistern. The sheer size of this underground structure just took our breath away. The cistern was originally built as one of hundreds of underground water tanks serving the city and with modern red up-lighters and dripping roofs, is of a surreal nature.  Its exact date is unknown although it is believed to have been enlarged in about 550 AD to its present size of approximately 80,000 cubic meters (nearly 18 million gallons).  It was restored in the 1970s with the removal of 10-15 feet of accumulated mud and silt revealing its structural material and two enormous Medusa heads.

Graham Peiser

The Haghia Sophia, the Church of the Holy Wisdom, is one of the world's greatest architectural wonders.  Built over two earlier churches, it was inaugurated by Emperor Justinian in 537 as a testament to the sophistication of the 6th century Byzantine capital. It was transformed into a mosque following the Ottoman conquest of the city in 1453 but since 1934 it has been a museum.

On entering the nave the overwhelming impression is of the vast space enclosed by the dome. This sits on four arches rising out of enormous piers which frame double colonnades at each end.  Banks of windows beneath the dome flood the church with light.

Hagia Sophia                                                                                       watercolour LTA

Designed as an earthly mirror of the heavens, the interior succeeds in imparting a truly celestial feel. The artistic highlights are a number of mosaics which date from the 9th century or later. The first of the surviving Byzantine mosaics can be seen over the Imperial Gate showing Christ on a throne with an emperor kneeling beside him and has been dated between 886 and 912.  We climbed up to the galleries, which had been used by the women for prayer.  Passing through the marble Gates of Heaven and Hell, the Deesis Mosaic shows Christ with John the Baptist and the Virgin Mary with another depicting the Virgin Mary holding the Infant Christ, flanked by Emperor John II Comnenus and Empress Irene.

With the conversion of the church into a mosque in 1453, the mosaics were plastered over and only re-discovered in the 1930's. Islamic elements include the mihrab and minbar which were added by Sultan Murad III in the 16th century and the great dome itself was decorated with Koranci inscriptions.  Unfortunately, the continuous work of restoration has required ongoing scaffolding work for decades.

Jenny Greaves

Topkapi Palace

We entered via the Imperial Gate into the first courtyard walking past the 6th century church of Haghia Eirene. We then passed into the main Palace complex built between 1459 and 1467 by Mehmet II as a series of pavilions enclosed by four large courtyards, a stone version of the tented encampments from which the nomadic Ottermans had emerged. Since 1923, it has been a museum and the many pavilions contain treasures collected by the Ottomans in their 470 year rule. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Treasury has an outstanding collection of Court jewels in particular the Topkapi dagger, the 86 carat, spoonmaker diamond, and the gold Bayran throne.    

              Emerald dagger of Mehmet IV                             Spoonmaker diamond 

watercolours LTA